Washington Post: Sip this sustainably made wine all summer
Three stars (Extraordinary)
Kind of Wild Grüner Veltliner 2020
Niederösterreich, Austria, $25
Kind of Wild is a new line of wines from the family that owns Winesellers, a leading Chicago-based importer. The line is designed to promote organic and regenerative farming, and all wines are made from organically certified grapes in the belief that consumers want wines made without artificial pesticides and herbicides. The label debuts with six wines from organic producers around the world. I’ve tasted several, and my favorites are a malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend from Argentina and this fine grüner veltliner from Austria. It features classic grüner flavors of jasmine, honeysuckle and lemongrass with a mouth-filling, voluptuous texture. Kind of Wild is currently available only online, with shipping to 23 states including the District, Maryland and Virginia. ABV: 12.5 percent.
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GREAT VALUE
Bedell Cellars Rosé 2020
Two and one-half stars (Excellent/Extraordinary)
North Fork of Long Island, N.Y., $17
Vibrant and juicy, this is a delightful rosé for summer from one of the pioneer wineries of Long Island’s North Fork. It’s a blend of merlot, cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon, with an added healthy dose of fun. Certified sustainable. Alcohol by volume: 11 percent.
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Masseria del Feudo Grillo 2019
Two and one-half stars (Excellent/Extraordinary)
Sicily, Italy, $18
Lemon zest, lemon curd, even that wayward squirt of juice that surprises you when you’re cooking – this wine brings to mind images of those mythical luncheons in a citrus grove you see in travel magazine photo shoots. Except you’re on your patio or deck, and that’s just fine. Certified organic grapes. ABV: 13 percent.
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GREAT VALUE
Plantagenet Wines Omrah Pinot Noir 2020
Three stars (Extraordinary)
Great Southern, Australia, $19
An intriguing pinot, with intense flavors of cherries, tree bark and a gamy meat on a grill tantalizingly out of sight, all wrapped in silky elegance. ABV: 13.5 percent.
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GREAT VALUE
Viñas Elias Mora 2017
Three stars (Extraordinary)
Toro, Spain, $20
What a difference a year makes. A leading wine magazine reviewed this wine in March 2020 as “pushy, raw and almost unfriendly in how tannic it is.” Tasting it recently, I found the wine beautifully integrated, with lovely savory notes of dark cherry, sassafras and mushrooms. Rather than being pushed away, I felt embraced. ABV: 14.5 percent.
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Availability information is based on distributor records. Prices are approximate. Check Winesearcher.com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through a distributor.